Beyond Adobo: Unique Flavors of Mindanao

When compared to the rest of the Philippines, Mindanao cuisine has a notable distinction in flavor that resonates with the influences of Spanish and Malay heritage. To be sure, there were other regional cuisines before the Spanish colonizers introduced adobo—nowadays the lazy stand-in for Philippine cuisine. Before we became a nation, our indigenous culinary traditions were already in place and forming the identity of regions and its peoples.  

The cuisine is distinguished by the use of coconut milk and spices such as chili, onion, ginger, and other spices in its preparations. A striking feature of Mindanaon cuisine is the use of burnt coconut as a condiment. Used as a flavoring agent, burnt coconut or “pamapa itum” gives off caramel notes and smoky flavor of toasted coconut.

As the country's second-largest island, Mindanao is composed of regions and major cities having its own distinct culinary culture and tradition. The dishes are rooted in native histories and local narratives of the indigenous tribes in the southernmost island of the nation. The names, meanwhile, impart that the dishes hold identity of its own.

Piyanggang Manok of the Tausugs, for example, translates to the process of grilling the chicken after being marinated in coconut milk with spices that include lemongrass and spicy black paste made with burnt coconut. The meat blackens in the process and results to a dish that is a literal labor of love. The dish is traditionally served as the main dish at weddings and other special occasions.  

Another popular dish usually reserved for celebrating important life events hails from the Tausug too. Tiyulah itum, also known as tiyula sug, is a braised beef or goat dish characterized by its black or greenish-gray soup from the black condiment also used in piyanggang manok. The highly revered dish is yet another labor of love, as it involves rubbing the meat with palapa, a curry-like past made with burnt coconut paste and spices that include garlic and ginger. Tiyulah itum is braised with onions and garlic, followed by turmeric, ginger, and galangal (langkuas). Broth is then added for simmering until tender. Although the men usually cook tiyulah itum, preparation of this dish is communal. This tradition is followed in the majority of the Tausug villages in Sulu Archipelago and Zamboanga Peninsula.

Reminiscent of the Indonesian classic, Beef Randang or riyandang is the saucier and caramelized version from the Maranao. Rendang can be made with any type of meat; however, beef and chicken are the most frequently used meats due to their versatility in the kitchen as well as the complexity of the cooking method and the ingredients used in making it. Spices such as garlic, shallots, chilies, ginger, galangal (turmeric leaves), and lemon grass are among those found in this dish, to name a few. Additionally, these spices act as a natural organic preservative, which explains why this dish can be stored at room temperature for up to four weeks. You will need to dedicate a significant amount of time to the preparation of this dish. The meat is slowly cooked in coconut milk and spices in a slow cooker until all of the liquid has been completely absorbed by the meat. That way, not only does the sauce become caramelized, but the meat also becomes exceptionally tender as it absorbs the flavors of the spices. As a traditional dish, rendang is a labor-intensive dish to prepare, with the best versions taking four hours or longer to complete. 

Finally, another mainstay of Maranao is Manuk na Piaparan. Its name translates to the process of sautéing the simmered chicken with papar or the grated meat of mature coconut. The chicken is simmered in flavorful combination of coconut milk, turmeric, and a special paste called palapa made with sakurab, ginger, and chilies. The use of palapa is an essential condiment in Maranao cuisine. It is used in the same way that sambal chili pastes, which are popular throughout Southeast Asia, are used. The spicy coconut milk used for simmering is then separated from the meat to be served as a soup garnished with chayote or cabbage.